With the Ming Gold exhibition, the Musée National Guimet is lifting the veil on the art of Chinese jewellery and goldsmithing in one of the most important dynasties in Chinese history. Running until 13 January 2025, the exhibition – made possible by Peter Viem Kwok’s collection deposited with the Qujiang Museum of Fine Arts – celebrates the refinement of a culture little known in France.
1- The Ming Dynasty
The Ming Dynasty took place between 1368 and 1644. It was founded by Zhu Yuanzhang, who overthrew the Yuan Mongol power that ruled China at the time. This political power stemming from the Han ethnic group was contemporary with the Italian Renaissance. By overthrowing the power of the Yuan, it restored Chinese traditions and Confucianism. In addition to the use of gold, the subject of the exhibition, it left a legacy of great achievements, including the Forbidden City and the Great Wall, as well as great artistic achievements, foremost among which are the famous “blue and white” porcelains.
Explorers, the members of this dynasty relaunched the conquest of the sea. Between 1405 and 1433, Admiral Zheng He’s fleet undertook six official voyages on behalf of the emperor, crossing Southeast Asia and rounding the Indian peninsula to reach the east coast of Africa. The monumental Chinese junks dominated the high seas. They brought back all kinds of riches from faraway lands: gold, silver, spices, precious stones, exotic animals… The country grew richer and a social class of wealthy merchant families emerged.
2- Gold and precious stones
The desire for material comfort gradually spread to all levels of society. Against this backdrop of urban expansion, luxury goods such as woven or embroidered silks, gold and jewellery became particularly coveted signs of social status and wealth. They were no longer the exclusive preserve of the aristocracy. A veritable “luxury economy” was born. Jewellery and ornaments became richer, adorned with precious stones and displaying a refinement pushed to the extreme. Gold, jade and stones were all indicators of the wearer’s social standing. Gold tableware covered the tables of the powerful and elite.
This development was accompanied by rules that defined precisely what to wear and in what circumstances. Although these rules were not necessarily followed to the letter and were subject to adaptation, the 15th and then 16th centuries saw the mass distribution of these objects. The period was a prosperous one, and the country’s wealthy elites called on imperial goldsmiths to create gold pieces embellished with gems such as rubies and spinel, imitating the practices of the Court. The most luxurious pieces generally featured a combination of stones in five colours – a reference to the theory of the “five agents” or “five elements”: wood (blue-green), fire (red), earth (yellow), metal (white) and water (black)
Jewellery also carries messages. Flowers, dragons and birds adorn these exceptional pieces. These different symbols represent fortune, longevity, wealth, health and happiness. Wearing them and giving them as gifts are certainly good omens, but they are also essential additions to the clothes of the elite.
This exhibition, on the second floor of the museum, takes you on a grandiose journey into Chinese craftsmanship. You’ll discover rare and exceptional pieces that hardly ever leave China, and most of which you’ll never see again in France. So be sure to visit the Musée Guimet to soak up the luxury and refinement of the Ming Court.
See you there!