For this week of haute couture, the jewellery houses have unveiled collections that are very different from each other. I had the pleasure of starting this crazy week with a house whose work I particularly like: Chanel Joaillerie. Every season, I am always surprised and excited by the stylistic choices of the creative team and this new opus did not disappoint me. Especially since it is thousands of nautical miles away from the last collections presented to us by the house. No flowers, no ribbons or sewing bows. It’s all about cruising, boats and the wind hitting the sails!
Coco Chanel on the deck of the Flying Cloud around 1926. Private collection. Photo: Chanel
It was already a very warm day in Paris and ideal for discovering the pieces. At Place Vendôme, the house recreated a seaside with sand, waves and a ship’s deck for the presentation of Flying Cloud, an opus of more than 60 pieces inspired by the famous boat of Hugh Grosvenor – 2nd Duke of Westminster – who was Gabrielle Chanel’s lover at the end of the 20s. At that time, he was one of the richest men in Europe and owned this huge yacht which is part of his legend. A man of taste but also a man of conquests, the relationship between these two very strong characters was not always a happy one. It was also during this period that La Pausa was built. It is said that the house was a gift from the Duke to Coco. In any case, she received the French and international intelligentsia and spent a lot of time there. The house has been part of the patrimony of the house for two years now, and is about to be completely restored. I’ll tell you more about it later!
The Flying Cloud, circa 1926. Private collection. Photo: Chanel
The pieces are all inspired by the nautical and marine world: ropes, anchors, sailors’ tattoos or shipboard uniforms. The fluidity of the lines as well as the colours (mainly blue and white) are a perfect echo of the whole maritime imaginary. Necklaces are adorned with uniform buttons, knots and ropes become necklaces and bracelets set with diamonds and a multitude of sapphires. Sailors’ tattoos become rings, but also illustrate one of the collection’s highlights: an imposing cuff bracelet, and buoys become earrings set with lapis lazuli. Few important stones except for absolutely magnificent sapphires, of a deep and luminous blue from Sri Lanka or Burma. But also a colourless sapphire that one does not expect in a high jewellery collection and which nevertheless finds a perfect place there! I propose to you to discover the pieces which pleased me the most in this new and very successful opus.
Sailor Tattoo ring in pink gold 750 with an oval pink sapphire of 1.36 carat, 2 marquise pink sapphires and 77 brilliant diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Yachting Day brooch in 750 white gold with a 1.57 carat round diamond, 1 1.53 carat pear diamond and 481 brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Blurred Lines earrings in 750 white gold with 2 emerald cut diamonds for a total weight of 3.13 carats, 34 blue sapphires, 16 Japanese cultured pearls and 56 brilliant cut diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine jewelry
Precious Float earrings in 750 white gold with 2 round diamonds for a total weight of 1.02 carats, 12 Japanese cultured pearls, Lapis Lazulis and 171 brilliant cut diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Golden Bra id bracelet in 750 yellow gold with a 4.22 carat cushion diamond and 273 brilliant cut diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine jewelry
The Yachting Day ring in 750 white gold with an 18.03-carat colourless oval sapphire, 51 brilliant blue sapphires and 65 brilliant diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine jewelry
Summer Cruise cuff in 750 white and yellow gold with a 2-carat round Fancy Intense diamond, 60 blue sapphires and 1306 brilliant diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Azurean Braid ring is in 750 white gold with an 11.49 carat cushion blue sapphire and 112 brilliant diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Sailor Tattoo ring in 750 yellow gold with a 1.10 carat cabochon cut red spinel, 26 orange sapphires and 63 brilliant diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Sailor Tattoo bracelet in 750 white gold and diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Turquoise Waters necklace in 750 white gold with a 2.58 carat pear-shaped diamond, 12 cushion-shaped blue sapphires, 34 oval-shaped blue sapphires, 3 pear-shaped blue sapphires, 2 round blue sapphires and 1,552 brilliant diamonds for a total weight of 23.84 carats. Photo : Chanel Fine jewelry
The Summer Cruise ring in 750 white gold with a 5.02 carat marquise diamond, 28 blue sapphires and 26 brilliant diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
Endless Knot” necklace in 750 white gold with a 3.51 carat round diamond and 2 pear diamonds for a total weight of 6.19 carats, 2637 round diamonds and 106 rose-cut diamonds. Photo : Chanel Fine Jewelry
See you soon!