The most breathtaking presentation was undoubtedly the one orchestrated by Boucheron in La Chapelle Laënnec, named after the former hospital that is now owned and headquartered by the luxury group Kering, of which the haute joaillerie house is a part.
For the occasion, the place was transformed into a birch forest under the snow. Dimmed light giving the impression of fog, the sound of a blizzard and howling wolves in the distance accompanied us during the long moment spent discovering the pieces that make up the new collection imagined by Claire Choisne.
A quasi-monochrome collection in shades of grey and white, where rare but imposing sapphires or tanzanites occasionally illuminate the pieces. White gold, diamonds, blue chalcedonies, moonstones, onyx, rock crystal, aquamarines, pearls and occasional black spinels adorn the many pieces inspired by ice, the domes of Russian churches and the icy landscapes of Russian winters.
Marquetry” bracelet set with blue chalcedony and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Ladoga” ring set with black sapphires and wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Ring “Nœuds” set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Named “Hiver Impérial”, the collection is a tribute to Russia, where the jeweller has been established since 1897. This new opus elegantly revisits the snowflake theme present since 1898 and more particularly on two exceptional necklaces made in 1906 and 1912 for one of its most important Russian customers, Barbara Kelch, granddaughter of the gold mine and railway owner Ivan Bazanov and wife of the multimillionaire Alexander Kelch.
Of course, rock crystal is everywhere. A material that is inseparable from this house, the workshops have once again produced some incredible pieces, here supporting white gold elements that are encrusted in it, or there filling up with diamonds and spinels for an astonishing result, such as the ring that is inspired by a snowball… Finally, we must mention the aspen wood, a type of poplar used for certain pieces, which visually softens the Rostov set and contrasts with the diamonds and gold. It is also a nice decision to include this material on high jewellery, which gives me hope that wood could be even more present in collections in the future.
Flocon Impérial” necklace set with a 5.20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of multiple wearing with its seven detachable elements as a ring, a pair of earrings, a fibula and hair accessories. A complete set offers the possibility of modulating each piece, according to one’s desires and outfits. Photos : Boucheron
Baïkal” necklace set with a 78.33 ct Santa Maria oval aquamarine, moonstones and Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds and aquamarines, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Laïka” ring set with a 31.21 ct cushion grey-blue Birman sapphire, grey spinels and sapphires, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Liseré” ring set with a 6.03 ct D VVS2 emerald cut diamond and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo: Boucheron
Among the stones not to be missed were a set of aquamarines, including a Santa Maria of 78.33 carats, Burmese sapphires of 7 to 10 carats, tanzanites, including one of 25.03 carats, pearls, including a South Sea pearl of more than 17 mm, an astonishing sugar loaf sapphire of 19.92 carats and a green tourmaline of 7.28 carats.
Finally, this collection is a perfect complement to the house’s bestiary, with a snow fox, a Husky, a polar bear, a raccoon and an owl. So let’s bundle up and discover this amazing collection that I had a great pleasure to discover at a time when Paris was sweltering hot.
Baïkal” ring set with a 24.87 ct pear aquamarine and freshwater cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Snowball” ring set with a diamond-filled rock crystal dome, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Boule” ring set with quartz, paved with diamonds, on white gold and titanium. Photo : Boucheron
Graphic Dome” ring set with a 12.41 ct pear tanzanite, Akoya cultured pearls and a blue chalcedony, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Foxy” ring set with a 7.28 ct pear green tourmaline and emeralds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Givre” ring set with a 5.01 ct E VVS1 round diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Grand Nord” necklace set with an 8.06 ct E VVS2 emerald cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Grand Nord” ring set with rock crystal filled with black spinel, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Laïka le Husky” watch in white gold, diamonds, sapphires, spinels, rock crystal and agate. Photo : Boucheron
Nevesta” ring set with a 10.98 ct oval Birman sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Oulu” ring set with yellow sapphires and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Perles Givrées” earrings set with cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Rostov” earrings set with aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
Rostov” ring set with aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Photo : Boucheron
See you soon!
