For several months, Le Gemmologue has been dormant. My Master’s studies in History forced me to make some choices. So, to get back to writing, I decided to head to Switzerland to meet a designer whose collections I’ve followed for many years—Cora Sheibani—and whose vision of jewelry I admire. She, who declares, “I love jewelry for its longevity, for the fact that metal and stone last well beyond a single lifetime,” presents the new Skin Deep collection in which she explores pearls as well as faceted gemstones in striking variations where materials, techniques, and often daring choices of cuts interact and contrast. Interview.
1- Dear Cora, can you introduce yourself to readers ?
I was born in Switzerland and have lived in London for almost 25 years. For as long as I can remember, I have always been fascinated by jewellery.
My mother always wore antique jewellery or unique pieces that she had made by artisan goldsmiths. My father is a prominent art dealer, so I grew up surrounded by art, artists, colours and bold shapes. This undoubtedly fuelled my passion for artistic topics at school. I studied art history in Florence and New York. Then, when I got married, I moved to London, where I obtained my gemmology degree from the GIA.
I decided to launch my eponymous jewellery brand in Mayfair, London, in 2002 and have not stopped creating ever since. My journey has not been straightforward, but I believe I have had the tenacity to avoid getting discouraged and to view every setback as an opportunity to learn and grow. I think my three wonderful children and my husband are a great support to me in my career. They closely follow the brand’s development and are very involved; my children even sometimes model for my collections.
2- What job did you want to do when you were a little girl
I don’t remember all the dreams I had as a child, but a few come to mind. I thought I wanted to be an opera singer, or even a glassblower, two very dramatic and creative professions. Later, I imagined myself working as a packaging designer, because I loved graphic design and 3D shapes. But my passion for jewellery ultimately won out over the others.
3- Career path and background & how ended up in jewellery
I got married quite young, at 21, and I knew very early on that I wanted to start a family. At the time, I believed that a career in packaging design would be more secure and would give me the flexibility to take care of my family. Naively, I imagined that I could devote myself to my real passion, jewellery design, on the side, on a part-time basis, while retaining the creative freedom I dreamed of.
For many years, that’s exactly what I did, I juggled my life as a mother with my jewellery sketches, but I realised that to become the recognised jewellery designer I wanted to be, I would have to get more involved. Once my two eldest children started school, I picked up the pace and began working almost full-time. In 2021, I moved into my own studio in Mayfair.
4- What does a typical day look like for you ?
My day usually starts around 6 a.m., when my 11-year-old son wakes me up. While he listens to an audiobook, I make him breakfast. We then have breakfast as a family, after which I spend some time drawing or playing with him until his home tutors arrive around 8:30 a.m. He is homeschooled as he has special needs. After that, I try to focus on myself for a while by going to the gym or doing yoga. Like my son, exercise helps me feel good and stay focused. I then usually head to my studio in Mayfair, where I meet with my team to discuss current projects. Afterwards, I check my emails and, depending on the day, may meet with a client, work on designing new pieces, follow up on the progress of an order with my trusted goldsmiths, or plan for an upcoming trade show.
No two days are ever the same. This work is intense and exciting, and I often find myself distracted by the stones we have in stock, imagining the new pieces that could be created. That’s the best part: the constant spark of ideas makes this work so exciting.​
5- What would you say to someone not interested in wearing jewellery, so as to make them want to wear it
I love the way jewellery makes me feel: beautiful, elegant and unique. For me, jewellery has never been an accessory but rather a starting point, a way to stand out and express your vision and identity. This is often what my clients are looking for. They can afford anything they want, but they are searching for unique jewellery that they won’t see on their friends.
At the same time, I have a lot of respect for everyone’s personal tastes, and I understand that some people are intimidated by jewellery, perhaps because they have a preconceived idea of it dictated by our culture. I try to redefine these codes by offering unexpected and surprising pieces that can be worn every day. Jewellery that intrigues and surprises, that is alive and constantly evolving, just like our lives.
6- How would you define your creative process & your approach to new collections
Each collection comes to me in its own way. It usually begins with a spark of curiosity or a new interest, which then somehow evolves into jewellery.
It can come from a memory, the shape of an everyday object, but also from contrasting materials and colours that I like to assemble and juxtapose. The creative dialogue with my artisans then starts. My creations are the result of meticulous engineering. I have my pieces made by a network of renowned artisan jewellers, mainly based in Switzerland. This artistic and technical collaboration is a true exchange, with each area of expertise enriching the other. We share the same high standards of craftsmanship in our field.
Finally, I sell my pieces directly to my private clientele or through art fairs and exhibitions.
My creative process goes far beyond the final aesthetic appearance of the pieces: I don’t create jewellery like sculptures that are meant to sit on a shelf, but rather to be worn every day and appreciated. In fact, they often become an extension of my clients’ personalities. What fascinates me most is exploring unexpected and surprising combinations of colours and materials (marble and wood combined with gemstones, for example), studying the reflection of light on gemstones, and constantly seeking to push the boundaries of jewellery craftsmanship and preconceptions. For example, my Skin Deep collection, which features coloured pearls, was born out of my fascination with the colours, origins and textures of cultured pearls, but it also aims to challenge preconceived ideas.
Why do we automatically consider some pearls more valuable than others? Are Chinese cultured pearls inferior to Japanese pearls, and who decides? Too often, we judge based on history or tradition rather than a more open aesthetic perspective. I like my jewellery to pose these questions and invite people to see beauty from a new angle.
7- Talk about newest collection and how it is different
This is the first time I have worked with pearls, so in that sense, the collection is entirely new. I wanted to combine different tones of cultured pearls from multiple pearling regions around the world, something that has not yet been sufficiently explored, and combine them in unexpected ways.
All my collections are open-ended and constantly evolving. I often add pieces as I discover new materials, expanding the range of possibilities. For Skin Deep, I revisited some of my old and recent collections (such as Facets & Forms), replacing certain stones with pearls. It’s fascinating to see familiar shapes and ideas transformed by a new material. In this way, my collections are in constant dialogue. It’s all about experimentation, curiosity and the search for new ways to express elegance and colour.
8- Where does your taste for unusual minerals come from
It comes from the way I was raised and looking at everything around me as if it were a work of art. I try to approach things with an unbiased eye (which isn’t always possible, of course), seeking out unique and unusual beauty wherever it may be found. This curiosity and open-mindedness naturally guided me to unusual minerals and unexpected gemstones.
9- Can you share anecdote from career – something that really impacted your career recently
I recently had the opportunity to take part in the TEFAF fair for the first time. It was a wonderful recognition and an important milestone in my career, the ultimate proof that staying true to my convictions, continuing to do what I love, and designing pieces I truly enjoy wearing has paid off. After years of being seen as a young woman indulging in a hobby, it is extremely gratifying to finally be recognised as a serious jeweller for my work and expertise.
10- Thoughts on the industry and it’s future
​Fewer and fewer people in Europe are pursuing careers as goldsmiths, which is worrying. The high price of gold, for example, has influenced the way creations are designed today. It is becoming an increasingly difficult profession. What will happen when the artisans I work with no longer find any apprentices? At the same time, perhaps the era of upheaval we are currently experiencing will inspire new vocations and restore the value of craftsmanship and creativity. I try not to dwell on the negative aspects of the present; deep down, I am an optimist. Challenges often stimulate innovation, and I am eager to see how the industry will continue to evolve.
11- What is the most unique and most meaningful piece you have ever made
Professionally speaking, I would say that my Timeline ring from the Facets & Forms collection is the piece that will define me for future generations of jewellers. It features twelve different diamond cuts set in a single hexagonal ring, telling the story and evolution of diamond cutting in a simple, architectural piece of jewellery. It’s a discreet tribute to my love of science and the history of gemmology in a unique piece that my client will not find at any other jeweller’s.
On a personal level, the most significant pieces I have created are damascene aluminium pendants for my family. They are the size and shape of pocket watches, and each side is engraved with images, letters or numbers that are significant to the person they are intended for. My sister Lea’s pendant, for example, features two L’s facing in different directions on one side, damascened in gold. On the other side is a copper snowflake, as unique as she is. Creating pieces like these allows me to combine my passion for jewellery craftsmanship and my creative approach, while discreetly expressing a deeper feeling or idea that is dear and meaningful to me.
12- Advice to new young people in this sector
Never give up to you believe in yourself.
Thank you Cora for these inspiring words and see you soon !
