For several months, Le Gemmologue has been dormant. My Master’s studies in History forced me to make some choices. So, to get back to writing, I decided to head to Switzerland to meet a designer whose collections I’ve followed for many years—Cora Sheibani—and whose vision of jewelry I admire. She, who declares, “I love jewelry for its longevity, for the fact that metal and stone last well beyond a single lifetime,” presents the new Skin Deep collection in which she explores pearls as well as faceted gemstones in striking variations where materials, techniques, and often daring choices of cuts interact and contrast. Interview.
1- Dear Cora, can you introduce yourself to readers ?
I’m born in Switzerland and have lived in London for nearly 25 years. My father is a prominent art dealer so I grew up surrounded by art, colour, and bold forms. That’s probably why I’ve always been passionate with creative topics at school. I studied art history in Florence and New York and then married young and moved to London to follow my husband while completing a gemmology degree with the GIA.
Through that was born my decision to design jewellery, which I’ve always been attracted to and always loved wearing. I’ve launched my eponymous jewellery label in London’s Mayfair in 2002. I’ve been designing ever since. It’s been a long journey, full of mistakes, but I was naïve enough in the beginning not to let them bother me. I design all my own pieces, have them made to the highest standards in continental Europe, and then work directly with private clients.
My work isn’t just about pretty things: it’s about exploration, colour, and craftsmanship. I don’t just make jewellery to sit on a shelf – I design to be worn, enjoyed, and lived with. On the personal side: I have three children (two adults and a younger one with special needs), and my husband is my biggest supporter.
2- What job did you want to do when you were a little girl
When I was a child, I don’t remember all of the dreams I had, but a few stood out: I thought I might be an opera singer, or even a glass-blower – both very dramatic, very creative. Later on, I imagined myself working as a packaging designer, because I loved graphic design and 3D forms. I’ve never worked for anyone else as started my brand straight after studying.
3- Career path and background & how ended up in jewellery
I got married quite young, at 21, and pretty soon knew that I wanted children. At the time, I thought packaging design would be a safer, more flexible career – something I could do from home, without being tied to a desk all day. Naively, I imagined I could design jewellery on the side, part-time, and still have the creative freedom I craved.
For many years, that’s exactly what I did- I worked part-time, juggling motherhood and my sketches- but my ambition wouldn’t let me stay small forever. Once my older two children were settled in school, I ramped things up and started working almost full-time. Then, after the disruption of COVID, I moved into my own studio in Mayfair, right in the heart of London.
4- What does a typical day look like for you ?
My day usually starts around 6 a.m., when my 11-year-old son -who has severe ADHD and autism – wakes me up. By 6:30, he’s collecting my phone for an audiobook, and I manage to get out of bed around 7 or 7:30 to get ready and make breakfast. We have breakfast together as a family, and then I spend some time drawing or playing with my son until his home-education tutors arrive around 8:30 or 9 a.m.
After that, I focus on myself for a bit – either I head hitting to the gym or do yoga. Like my son, I love sports; it helps me feel good and stay focused. I usually then go to my studio in Mayfair afterwards, where I meet with my small team of two to discuss ongoing projects. Then it’s on to emails, and depending on the day, I might meet a client, design new pieces, check the progress of a commission, or plan for an upcoming fair.
No two days are the same. The job is busy and fun, and I often get sidetracked by the stones we have in stock, imagining what new pieces could come to life. That’s the best part: the constant spark of ideas keeps it exciting.
5- What would you say to someone not interested in wearing jewellery, so as to make them want to wear it
I have a lot of respect for everyone’s personal taste, and I would never try to convert someone. Honestly, if everyone wore jewellery, it would become far too expensive! Thank goodness we all have different interests.
For me, I love the way jewellery makes me feel – beautiful, elegant, and complete. I suppose I was just born this way. It’s not about trying to impress anyone else; it’s about how it makes me feel.
6- How would you define your creative process & your approach to new collections
Each collection comes to me in its own way. Usually, it starts with a spark of curiosity or a new interest, and then somehow that evolves into jewellery.
For example, Facets and Forms was inspired by my love of science and history, and my joy in sharing knowledge. The collection is a tribute to the history of different jewellery cuts. The Skin Deep collection, which features coloured pearls, grew from my fascination with colour and gemstones – but it’s also about challenging preconceptions.
Why do we automatically consider some pearls “better” than others? Are Chinese-cultured pearls really inferior to Japanese ones? Who decides? Too often, we judge based on history or tradition rather than on a more open, aesthetic perspective. I like my jewellery to ask those questions and to invite people to see beauty in new ways.
7- Talk about newest collection and how it is different
This is my first time working with pearls, so in that sense, the collection is entirely new. I’ve focused on mixing cultured pearls from different regions – something that hasn’t been explored enough – and combining them in unexpected ways.
I’ve also revisited some of my older designs, giving them a fresh twist by replacing stones with pearls. I did something similar with my Glow collection, so it’s exciting to see familiar shapes and ideas transformed through a new material. It’s all about experimentation, curiosity, and finding new ways to express elegance and colour.
8- Where does your taste for unusual minerals come from
It comes from the way I was raised – to look at everything the way you would look at art. I try to approach things with an eye unclouded by preconceptions (not always possible, of course), seeking out the unique and unusual beauty wherever it can be found. That curiosity and openness have naturally guided me toward unusual minerals and unexpected gems.
9- Can you share anecdote from career – something that really impacted your career recently
Recently, I’ve had the incredible feeling of being introduced from one person to another as a “great jeweller.” It’s a wonderful validation – proof that sticking to what I believe in and doing what I love has truly paid off. After years of being seen as a young woman pursuing a hobby, it’s immensely rewarding to finally be recognised for my work and my craft.
10- Thoughts on the industry and it’s future
There are fewer and fewer people in Europe pursuing a career as a goldsmith, which is concerning. But I’ve always believed that humanity becomes more creative when faced with limitations and new realities.
High gold prices, for example, have influenced how jewellers design today. That’s not a bad thing – it means that when people look back at this time, they’ll see a clear shift in creativity and approach. I try not to dwell on the negatives of the present; at heart, I’m an optimist. Challenges often spark innovation, and I’m excited to see how the industry continues to evolve.
11- What is the most unique and most meaningful piece you have ever made
Professionally, I’d say my Timeline Ring is the piece that will define me to future generations of jewellers. It features twelve custom-cut diamonds set in a single hexagonal ring, telling the history and evolution of diamond cutting in one simple jewel.
On a personal level, the most meaningful pieces I’ve made are the damascene aluminium pendants for my family. They’re the size and shape of pocket watches, solid, and each side is engraved with images, letters, or numerals significant to the person they’re made for. My sister Lea’s pendant, for example, has two “L’s” facing different directions on one side – one for her name, and one for turning fifty – damascened in gold. On the other side is a copper snowflake, as unique as she is. Creating pieces like these allows me to blend craft, creativity, and deep personal meaning in a way that feels truly special.
12- Advice to new young people in this sector
Never give up to you believe in yourself.
Thank you Cora for these inspiring words and see you soon !
