At the end of January 2021, it is impossible for me to go to Paris for the high jewellery collections. The current context does not facilitate things and travel. Fortunately, there are the remarkable press kits that allow me to discover the pieces as if I had been there. And so I begin with the house of Chanel, which usually opens the jewellery ball of January fashion week for me.
RUBAN CANOTIER ring in white gold, rose gold, diamonds, red and black lacquer. Photo: Chanel Joaillerie
CAMELIA VENITIEN ring in yellow gold, diamonds and rock crystal. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
For this new collection headed by Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Creative Studio, the house chose to pay homage to Venice, the city that helped Gabrielle Chanel overcome the brutal and accidental death of Boy Capel, the great love of her life. Organised around 4 large sets, this new opus includes 70 pieces, some very classic, others more surprising, which reveal a fantasised and fabulous vision of this city with such a special atmosphere.
LION SECRET ring in white gold, platinum, diamonds and blue sapphire. 1 cushion cut blue sapphire 30.92 cts. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
ASTRAL CONSTELLATION necklace in white gold, yellow gold, diamonds, yellow sapphires and lapis lazuli. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
Chanel met Capel in 1908, he was perhaps the best friend of Etienne Balsan, the one who would allow the Gabrielle Chanel myth to be born. Rich, from a large industrial family and above all married, he is nevertheless a great party animal and an unfailing womaniser. By installing his mistress in Royallieu, he allows her to get into good society and to meet her very first clients. His meeting with Boy marks a turning point and the beginning of a love story that will last 11 years.
Brooch project. Photo: Chanel Joaillerie
VOLUTE MARINE earrings in white gold, yellow gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
Her story with Boy will lead her to discover a world of symbols and beliefs. He will introduce her to esotericism but also to symbolism. Chanel is fascinated by this being who is described as secret and mysterious. This story will mark her whole life and we know that symbols will be of capital importance to her. In 1910, he financed her first hats, in 1913, he advanced her the funds to create a boutique in Biarritz and success was immediate. He did not leave her for many years.
CONSTELLATION ASTRALE bracelet in white gold, yellow gold, diamonds, yellow sapphires and lapis lazuli. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
VOLUTE CROISIERE necklace in yellow gold, white gold, diamonds, onyx and red spinels. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
Shortly before Christmas 19, Boy dies in a car accident. Coco is devastated. To help her recover from this tragedy, a couple of friends – Misia and José-Maria Sert – take her to Venice. It is a revelation for Chanel. In this city, she finds the symbol of Leo, represented a thousand times, which is also her astrological sign. José-Maria takes her on a tour of the city. From museum to museum, she learns about Venetian painting, the great masters and the excessive Byzantine aesthetic. She is still impregnated with this culture and its codes, which will accompany her until her death.
VOLUTE CROISIERE earrings in yellow gold, white gold, diamonds, onyx and red spinel. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
EMBLEMATIC LION ring in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and yellow sapphires. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
With the “Escale à Venise” collection, Chanel has transformed the main symbols of the city of the Doges into jewels. Yellow gold, white gold, diamonds, lapis lazuli, rock crystal, are revealed in a profusion of pieces and preparatory drawings. As with each collection, the specialised craftsmen have done a fantastic job and the quality of the pieces testifies to the know-how used. Most of the stones required very specific adjustments to the works and it took almost three years from the first sketches to their presentation in January 21. Dazzling, so Chanel, inimitable, the creations unveiled in the mildness of this Parisian winter are in the image of this unique city that is Venice and give a particular flavour to this beginning of the year.
VOLUTE VENITIENNE ring in white gold, yellow gold, diamonds, lapis lazuli, cultured pearl. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
Brooch project. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
See you soon!