There are those who say they make high jewellery and then there are those who make high jewellery. Among these houses capable of signing spectacular collections, we must now count with Louis Vuitton. If the house has been presenting jewellery collections for a few years now, each more impressive than the last, it has been able to join the very closed club of makers of high jewellery excellence in record time, thanks to its pieces and majestic stones. With this fourth collection signed by Francesca Amfitheatrof – Spirit – the brand is making its mark and asserting its raison d’être in a segment that remains relatively young for this venerable institution of French luxury.
Destiny necklace in gold and diamonds featuring a suite of Mozambique rubies with a central stone weighing over 10 carats. Note the emerald cut for this rare quality stone. Photo: Louis Vuitton
The Spirit collection is the fourth signed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, the Artistic Director of jewellery of the house who arrived in 2018 after several years at Tiffany & Co. And it is clear that she has been able to give the necessary opulence to collections that should be an annual highlight in the life of a luxury house. July 2022 was no exception to the rule. No less than 125 pieces were unveiled, all directly inspired by the mythological theme dear to Amfitheatrof. And opulence means metal and diamonds, but above all exceptional centre stones. It was therefore necessary to search for the sumptuous materials that adorn the pieces in this new opus. Tsavorites, rubies, mandarin garnets and other sapphire pairings adorn the five worlds of the collection: Liberty, Grace, Fantasy, Radiance and Destiny. These stones are beautifully described in the interview below
65.26 carats is the weight of the tsavorite garnet that adorns the Grace necklace. A piece that required 2000 hours of work, including a major re-cutting of the baguette diamonds that emphasise the volumes of this jewel. The whole collection is imposing, the pieces are massive, heavy. They are objects made to be seen. And that is also what we like about this high jewellery that knows how to combine technical feat and permanent spectacle. So, of course, the stones chosen can only delight gemologists and those of the house have undeniably taken pleasure in selecting gems with an incredible presence. Just like this tsavorite. In a sector where competition rages for beautiful materials (they are rare, but not in short supply as they have simply always been rare), acquiring them requires speed and a certain amount of money.
Inspired by the wings of a phoenix, the gold and diamond Grace set not only reveals a tsavorite of over 65 carats, but also other garnets of the same variety that adorn the rings, brooches and earrings of this incredible set. Photo: Louis Vuitton
The symbols of the house with the famous monogram canvas are visible everywhere. Although discreet, the V is everywhere, highlighting stones here, dressing the architecture of a necklace there. The four-lobed flower is also present, recalling what originally made the success of a house dedicated to travel and its art. And that is the purpose of this new collection, to make us travel. Not in a normal territory but in a fantasized elsewhere where mystical and fantastic creatures are expressed. Where stones would be treasures, where jewels would not be simple ornaments but objects full of magic. I don’t know about you, but for me, that’s what I love about fine jewellery. I don’t want it to be innovative all the time, even though I love it to be so. No, I want it to be technical, complicated, breathtaking, sumptuous of course, I like it to whisper to me stories of legends that remind me of the fantastic tales and legends that I love to read and re-read. I love that it makes me dream. So, thank you for this Maison Vuitton, because you have fulfilled me.
The Radiance set reveals gold and diamond scales reminiscent of a thousand-year-old dragon. In the centre is a 10.99 carat mandarin garnet. Cuff, earrings and rings complete this piece. On the rings, two mandarin garnets of 14.73 and 18.72 carats respectively. Like precious acid candy. Photo : Louis Vuitton
See you soon!
Cover photo: Sri Lankan sapphire and Colombian emerald. Photo : Louis Vuitton