On 25 November, Maurice Auction will be staging a fine jewellery auction featuring some very attractive pieces. In particular, an exceptional jewellery box signed entirely by Maison Caen. An unjustly forgotten jeweller today, the coming auction introduces three perfectly executed pieces that testify to the workshop’s level of mastery. But that’s not all. Among the 97 lots that make up this sale, you will find many other houses and as many pretty stories for an exciting jewellery journey.
1- Always have a Boivin in your wardrobe
If a pearl necklace is a must-have in a woman’s wardrobe, it becomes even more so when it is embellished with an elegant clasp by René Boivin. As simple as it is delicious, this candy clasp set with an imposing citrine beautifully illuminates the two strands of akoya pearls. Worn on the front, on the back or even three-quarter length, this luminous stone allows for every kind of fantasy. Signed and hallmarked by Boivin, this piece fits in perfectly with the house’s creations, with its generous volume and soft design.
2- Mistletoe by Camille Bournadet for Van Cleef & Arpels
Since the 1950s, mistletoe has been available in every possible color at Van Cleef & Arpels. Whether in coral, lapis lazuli, and even today in chrysoprase, this collection, which came in the form of brooches, earrings, and bracelets, was as colorful as it was joyful. And we love it!
Although Mistletoe jewellery is always signed Van Cleef & Arpels, it is interesting to look at the workshop that made it. In most cases, the initials CB are legible. CB stands for M. Camille Bournadet, a workshop that has worked for VCA, of course, but also for Cartier and Lacloche. Bournadet founded his workshop in 1931 (registered in March 1932) and continued to work until 1972, when his grand-nephew, Roger Mathon, took over. Roger Mathon went on to found the Maison Mathon, which still excels today in the field of fine jewellery.
3- Lots 6, 7 & 8: La Maison Caen
It’s not every day that three pieces from a forgotten house that is virtually never identified in auction catalogues come up for sale. So what a pleasure it is to discover this family jewellery box comprising a diamond brooch, a beautiful necklace of fine pearls and a Belle Epoque bracelet set with diamonds, all made by Édouard Caen (see p.9 of the sale catalogue).
Founded in Paris in 1859, this company was initially dedicated to chains, but at the turn of the twentieth century it evolved into a refined jewellery house where diamonds and coloured stones interacted brilliantly. The rare pieces available and the company’s designs bear witness to a very high level of expertise. The first half of the twentieth century was the workshop’s most exceptional period.
Delicate, airy motifs, diamonds, scrolls and geometric patterns demonstrate the House’s attention to changing fashions. Unjustly forgotten since her death, she is rediscovered here and her talent highlighted in the most beautiful of ways.
4- The octagon by Boucheron
It is the talent of jewellers to constantly push back the boundaries of technique. If having one piece of jewellery is great, it’s even better to have several in one. The Boucheron case that comes with this river of diamonds is designed to be totally transformable, offering the possibility of wearing this jewel as a necklace or as two bracelets, making it suitable for any occasion.
Made in platinum in 1935, this piece offers a harmonious shape that is relatively unexploited in jewellery: the octagon. A symbolic shape, this geometric construction is thought to have multiple meanings, as it lies halfway between the square and the round. Prized by architects for its gentle geometry, the octagon has a special place in jewellery, where the number 8 is intimately linked to diamond-cutting: setting in a cross, setting in a figure of eight, then making eight bezels, eight stars on a table or eight pavilions on a breech.
There’s no doubt about it: the octagonal setting is the ideal way to give full expression to a material that took many centuries to tame..
5- Miniaturising jewellery with André Vassort for Van Cleef & Arpels
It’s a fact that jewellery is often a small, delicate object, and that’s precisely what makes it so charming. This brooch is as adorable as it is miniature. Its daisy-like design, featuring an unheated ruby from Thailand surrounded by diamonds, inevitably brings to mind a ring or necklace clasp. And that’s certainly what it was originally.
The transformation into a brooch creates an astonishing piece of miniature jewellery. It showcases the technical expertise of André Vassort, a workshop devoted to the greatest jewellery houses, including Van Cleef & Arpels.
Founded in 1955, it closed in 1997 after more than 40 years of loyal service. A partner of the major jewellery brands, it works for Boucheron, Cartier and Gérard, to name but three. His pieces are instantly recognisable, and the presence of his hallmark further underlines his expertise. So it’s hardly surprising that this is the company that carries out the delicate operation of transforming the head of a ring into a delicate brooch… And how beautiful it is!
6- Touch wood with Van Cleef & Arpels
The use of wood in Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery appeared during the First World War. With no metal and a shortage of stones, ingenuity was called for. The “Touch Wood” collection was born in 1916. It was illustrated by Fabiano in a series of charming advertisements. And the jewellery house didn’t stop there. Wood was to feature prominently in many of the company’s designs.
Sensual, elegant, warm and, as the saying goes, lucky, wood offers a wide range of possibilities in jewellery and watchmaking. In the 1930s, the brand introduced a wristwatch made of wood. Its lightness meant it could be worn for all occasions, including sport.
At the same time, the Domino pocket clock was a feast for the eyes. A few years later, in the 1950s, this model came in wood, retractable and therefore practical, but also beautiful and fun. About the size of a domino, the light-weight clock is made from amourette wood, and can be unfolded and placed in front of the wearer to measure time, accompanying the elegant traveller who is anxious not to lose time or luck!
7- Baccarat flowers
In the 1990s, Baccarat diversified its production and explored new creative fields. It inaugurated jewellery, moving away from its original production of exceptional decorative pieces. Many designers worked for the company, including Catherine Noll, Philippe Giraud and Elie Top, who designed the Louxor necklace in 2014 to celebrate the company’s 250th anniversary.
The Hortensia collection is one of the house’s key designs, available in large brooches, necklaces, rings and earrings. The models come in different sizes and in all the crystal colours that the house can produce. Now unobtainable, you have to look for it second-hand, but it remains rare. It is therefore fortunate that this model is available in perfect condition.
The brooch bears the mark of Daniel Reinert, a jeweller based in Moselle (France) who worked for Baccarat making the gold and silver mounts for the crystal pieces.
See you soon and enjoy the auction!
