Chaumet’s new high jewellery collection for 2018 is divided into three phases. In January, the house proposed a panel of twelve pieces dedicated to the Russian winter. Blue sapphires and padparadscha illuminated jewels of remarkable technicality where diamonds were numerous for a beautiful result. The staging in the private salons of the house was entrusted to theAtelier Marianne Guely, which signed a breathtaking paper universe.
Hummingbird egret, Joseph Chaumet, circa 1880. Gold, silver, rubies and diamonds. Chaumet Paris Collection© Chaumet / Nils Herrmann. Worn as a brooch or as an aigrette associated with a feather, this exquisite little round-boss is distinguished by the hummingbird’s plumage rendered by a clever paving of rubies and diamonds in volume. The lightness and grace of the bird of paradise is captured in movement.
Japanese brooch “Raijin, god of rain and thunder”. Joseph Chaumet, circa 1900. Gold, opal, nicolo agate, rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Chaumet Paris Collection© Chaumet / Nils Herrmann. Characteristic of the influence of Japonism on European decorative arts, and in particular on Art Nouveau, this brooch features the figure of Raijin, god of thunder in Japanese mythology. Traditionally depicted banging drums to provoke thunder, he is here associated with a young woman wearing a kimono and holding an umbrella, under cloudy scrolls. Rather than a faithful interpretation of the subject, this object is more of a picturesque eclecticism inspired by the fantastic repertoire of the Far East and the ornamental collections of the Renaissance and the 17th century.
With summer approaching, Chaumet is taking over the famous Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum in Tokyo for several months from 28 June to 17 September 2018. The exhibition“Les Mondes de Chaumet” presents more than 300 historical pieces that retrace almost 250 years of history. The aim of this unique project is to present previously unpublished documents such as photos and drawings, as well as jewellery, the oldest of which dates from the end of the 18th century. The scientific curator is Henri Loyrette, Honorary President of the Louvre and author ofa beautiful book on the house that we can only recommend. The exhibition will explore, among other things, the Japanese style that gave rise to some spectacular pieces of jewellery. But the exhibition will be the opportunity to admire the Tiara of Pope Pius VII (which was given to him by Napoleon I), which is topped by a historical emerald that we will talk about here shortly.
Japanese-inspired necklace. Chaumet, 2018. Gouache. Chaumet Paris Collection© Chaumet. Part of an ensemble created especially for the exhibition, this necklace combines a highly structured geometric design with the freedom of nature in motion. A marriage of Western and Japanese cultures, it fuses two naturalistic traditions in a play of red (rubies and rhodolite garnets) and black (onyx) illuminated by the light of diamonds.
Tiara of Pope Pius VII offered by Emperor Napoleon I. Henry Auguste (goldsmith), Marie-Etienne Nitot and François-Regnault Nitot, 1804-1805 (many later modifications). Gold, silver, silver gilt, emerald, rhinestones, pearls, synthetic stones, cut glass, silk velvet, gold lamé, metallic threads, wood, paper glued in full. Rome, Pontifical Sacristy © Chaumet / Régis Grman. Undoubtedly the most important of all the diplomatic gifts offered by Napoleon, the tiara of Pope Pius VII was made at the Emperor’s request in gratitude for the pontiff’s visit to the coronation ceremony on 2 December 1804 in the cathedral of Notre-Dame in Paris. On the occasion of this exhibition, the Vatican entrusted Chaumet with the restoration of the tiara and the creation of a cross to surmount the exceptional summit emerald known as the Julius II emerald.
Finally, in July, during the Haute Couture week, the last chapter of the collection will be unveiled. It will undoubtedly be magnificent and we will be happy to discuss in a more complete article the pieces that we will discover for the moment. A few weeks of patience are still necessary.
So, until then, fly to Japan and explore Les Mondes de Chaumet!
Leuchtenberg” tiara. Jean-Baptiste Fossin, circa 1830-1840. Gold, silver, emeralds and diamonds. Chaumet Paris Collection© Chaumet / Nils Herrmann. From the Leuchtenberg family, descendants of Empress Josephine, this tiara features the living nature of Fossin’s creations, inhabited by exceptional emeralds. The naturalist illusion is reinforced by the aspen frame, which makes the flowers sway with the movements. Each one can be detached and worn in the hair or as a brooch.
Enamelled bag watch representing a cherry tree in bloom, circa 1925. Chaumet drawing workshop. Graphite pencil, gouache, wash and gouache highlights, Indian ink. Chaumet Paris Collection© Chaumet
Headband tiara of Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. Attributed to Nitot & Fils, circa 1810. Gold, pearls and nicolo agate intaglios. K. Mikimoto & Co Ltd © All rights reserved. This headband bears witness to the taste for antiques under the Empire, encouraged by Napoleon and Josephine. Made for Caroline Murat, sister of the Emperor, it is decorated with nine intaglios with mythological subjects of love: Love burning Psyche, Omphale carrying Hercules’ club, Bonus Eventus, Love with his bow and arrow, Hercules, Pompey, Venus undressing for the bath, Love sharpening his arrows, Love and Psyche.
Scottish knot” brooch. Joseph Chaumet, 1907. Platinum, gold, coloured stones and diamonds. Private collection© Rights reserved. Inspired by the ribbon knot – an essential part of the 18th century feminine toilette – this brooch symbolises attachment. The play of coloured stones reproduces the Scottish tartan pattern, while the design gives the illusion of the suppleness of the textile. Acquired by Miss Dinsmore, an American customer, this piece illustrates Chaumet’s great creativity during the Belle Epoque. This piece was recreated for the July 2017 high jewellery collection.
See you soon!
The Worlds of Chaumet
Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo
From 28 June to 17 September 2018