Here I am again after almost three weeks of absence. Fashion week and several articles to write for different magazines have taken up a lot of my time. But I’m back to share with you my discoveries of this week which turned out to be exciting. The big French houses, admittedly in the minority now in front of the growing number of foreign houses, were able to present extremely complete collections with settings that I won’t forget. This year again, the “creation” departments set the bar high and demanded real prowess from the workshops. As shown by, among others, the GemDior collection that I will not represent in this article. So, I invite you to follow me in my scintillating wanderings at Boucheron, Chanel, Chaumet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Lydia Courteille, Goralska, Cartier or even Messika and Reza…
With the collection “Paris vu du 26”, the Boucheron house celebrates the Parisian monuments and imagines a world seen from the new flat located on the top floor of the private mansion – the Hôtel de Nocé – that it occupies on the Place Vendôme and whose important transformations I presented to you. The collection brings together more than 70 pieces freely inspired by the city’s architectural perspectives. The result is astonishing and truly successful. A way of telling us that everything is more beautiful seen from the 26, it seems that it is true!
The 26V ring in white gold and titanium, diamonds, onyx, cacholong and rock crystal. The centre is a 4.08 ct F VVS2 diamond. The ring is inspired by the Place Vendôme from the sky. Photo: Boucheron
White gold and freshwater pearl long necklace. It is set with diamonds including a 1.58 carat F VVS2 centre. It is inspired by the acanthus leaf motif seen on many Parisian monuments. Photo : Boucheron
Yellow gold, diamond and sculpted rock crystal bracelet. This bracelet is inspired by the horses that adorn the Paris Opera House. Photo: Boucheron
Earrings in white gold and titanium, diamonds and emeralds. They are freely inspired by the glass roofs of the Grand Palais. Photo: Boucheron
With this single earring, the house imagines the presence of a parrot in its winter garden. Here is Nuri, a jewel made of gold, titanium, aquamarines, heliodore, coloured sapphires and diamonds. Photo : Boucheron
Inspired by the perspective of the Place Vendôme, this gold and rock crystal ring is adorned with a 13.76-carat heliodore. Photo: Boucheron
This year, the house did not choose Paris and presented its novelties at a London event where about 1/3 of the final collection was visible. In Paris, we could only see 6 sets. With Magnitude, the house chose to use really surprising contrasts of colours and materials for a surprising and successful result. Hence a certain disappointment at having only a few visuals of this new opus. Anyway, here are some pictures to present you the main thread of Magnitude.
Sorelli watch in white gold, diamonds and rutilated quartz. Photo : Cartier
Yuna ring in white gold and yellow and colourless diamonds. I’ll let you admire the two stones which show particularly interesting growth phenomena. Photo : Cartier
Zemia bracelet in white gold, sapphires, garnets, diamonds and a 77.27-carat Australian matrix opal centre. Photo: Cartier
The Equinoxe necklace in yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires and lapis lazuli. Photo: Cartier
For this new high jewellery collection, the house proposed a fairytale walk in Russia inspired by Coco Chanel’s memories. Ernest Beaux, a perfumer at the court of the Tsars, imagined the revolutionary formula of N°5 for her; her fashion, for its part, took on Russian accents. Behind this change, an elegant and discreet figure emerges, that of the Grand Duke Dimitri Pavlovitch, a seductive young man with clear eyes, cousin of Tsar Nicolas II, whom Chanel had known since 1911 and met in Biarritz in 1920. They will have an intense and brief affair. The fallen hero of one of the most sumptuous courts in Europe, he discovered a world of patterns and shapes that resonated strongly with her. Patrice Léguereau, director of the company’s design studio, has therefore proposed more than 60 pieces based on this theme and it is a great success.
MÉDAILLE SOLAIRE ring in white gold, yellow gold, platinum, yellow diamond and white diamond. Photo: Chanel Joaillerie
FOLKLORE bracelet in white gold, yellow gold, enamel, blue sapphires, pink sapphires, Mandarin and tsavorite garnets, cultured pearls and diamonds. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
ROUBACHKA necklace in yellow gold, platinum, yellow and white diamonds. Photo: Chanel Joaillerie
BLÉ MARIA brooch in yellow gold, white gold, yellow sapphire, pink spinels, Mandarin garnets, coloured tourmalines and diamonds. Photo : Chanel Joaillerie
For its latest collection, Claire Devé-Rakoff and the design studio worked on the sky. Although the theme is present in the house’s archives, it is not a common one. The new collection, with more than 80 pieces, is structured around different chapters highlighting stars, birds, storms, the sun, clouds and comets. As if to remind us that the sky is the place of a multitude of phenomena and that jewellers can find an endless source of inspiration there. This is perhaps my favourite collection of the fashion week. Very different from the other collections of the house, it demonstrates its ability to transform and renew itself constantly. So a big congratulations!
White gold ring set with a 29.40 carat Australian black opal and brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: Chaumet
Earrings in white and yellow gold, set with 2 cushion-cut Imperial topazes of 6.33 and 5.83 carats, 2 pink morganites of 0.78 and 0.73 carats, fancy-cut multicoloured sapphires, baguette-cut onyx motifs and brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: Chaumet
White gold brooch set with a cushion-cut red spinel of 18.47 carats, 2 pear-cut blue spinels of 5.60 and 1.12 carats, 2 pear-cut chrysoberyls of 3.51 and 2.27 carats, 3 pear-cut tourmalines of 3,04, 1.47 and 0.65 carats, a pear-shaped red spinel of 1.19 carats, a pear-shaped chrysoberyl of 0.33 carats, blue spinels, round sapphires and rhodolite garnets and brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: Chaumet
White and yellow gold ring set with a 4.13 carat Madagascar violet sapphire, round pink sapphires and spinels, baguette-cut onyx motifs and baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: Chaumet
For the fashion week, the house worn by Corinne Evens presented a unique piece: “Le Chaos”, a white gold and diamond pendant with a stone of more than 6 carats in the centre.
“Le Chaos” by Goralska. Photo: Goralska
6- Lydia Courteille
A tribute to Parisian women and the city of love that is Paris was needed. Well, Lydia Courteille did it with brio and humour. With frou-frou and erotic jewellery, inspired by Chantal Thomas’ lingerie, Lydia shows us that the French kiss is not a legend! This collection, made of rose gold and morganite, reveals daring and terribly desirable pieces. My favourite: the erotic cameo that only Lydia, today in France, dares to present on jewellery to be worn every day!
Ring in pink gold, pink sapphires and black diamonds. Photo : Lydia Courteille
Ring in pink gold, pink sapphires and morganites. Photo: Lydia Courteille
Ring in pink gold, pink sapphires and black diamonds. Inspired by Dali’s sofa for the Crazy Horse. Photo : Lydia Courteille
Third year, third island. Laure-Isabelle Mellerio has signed her latest collection based on the Borromean Islands. After Isola Madre and Isola Bella, the new opus of this collection in three acts celebrates “Isola dei Pescatori”, the smallest of these islands and yet the only one to be really inhabited. If the pieces of the collection are all very beautiful, I had a real crush on the Ondine set, which is based on carved lapis lazuli with a surprisingly modern look. The blue of the water and the movement of the waves seem almost real… Hats off to the craftsmen who made this!
Ondine” necklace / brooch in white gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli. The centre stone is a 2.52 carat cushion diamond. Photo: Mellerio
Ciotolli” ring in white gold, diamonds, sapphires, chrysoprases and a 4.52 carat Colombian emerald centre. Photo: Mellerio
“Born to be wild”, the tone was set by Valérie Messika, who brilliantly desacralized diamonds to propose audacious, modern, almost unimaginable jewels like this gold and diamond mask that could sublimate a mysterious lady on the quays of Venice. Massive and sculptural creoles, coloured diamonds or mono buckles show that nerve and audacity are essential to life!
Desert bloom” mask in white gold and diamonds. Photo : Messika
M Rainbow” hoop earrings in pink gold and coloured diamonds. Photo: Messika
The house located at 21 Place Vendôme presented its new pieces in its private salons. As always, Réza’s creations are refined and modern, with remarkable centre stones. This is the signature of the house and we hope it will last forever!
Turban” ring in white gold, diamonds and Zambian emerald (Mod. oil), 6.93 carats. Photo: Reza
Clusters” earrings in pink gold, diamonds and rubies. Photo: Reza
10- Van Cleef & Arpels
For this new collection, the house was inspired by the love story Romeo & Juliet. The book, but above all the ballet that Benjamin Millepied – husband of Natalie Portman – has just staged with his company The L.A. Dance Project. Presented in the Hôtel d’Evreux, with a sublime staging, it is in my opinion the most beautiful collection of the house among those of recent years.
Night or Day” brooch in gold, diamonds, rubies, sapphires and lapis lazuli. Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels
Le Balcon” brooch in white gold, diamonds, emeralds and tsavorite garnets. Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels
Fiore” bracelet in white gold, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and two aquamarines weighing over 100 carats. Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels
See you soon!